Friday, February 25, 2011

Where to find foie gras, duck confit and fat

So, some (OK, one person) have asked where they can find some of the ingredients mentioned in Jeanne Strang's "Goose Fat and Garlic." This is the case with a lot of traditional French cooking. Aside from creating your own duck confit by slow cooking duck in its own fat renderings and preserving it, some locations I've found online were here Duck Confit from Gourmet Foodstore and, here: Duck Confit from Caviar & More.
Of course, it's also on Amazon per the links below.

Therein lies the impracticality of cooking these traditional French country dishes. You have to either render your own poultry or fowl, or buy it from an import company. That is far more expensive than doing it yourself. However, many major supermarkets don't carry duck or goose anymore. Even around the holidays, many markets will put the buyer into a position of having to special order a bird. But that would mean getting an already butchered, pre-frozen bird.

As sad as it is, the days of people being competent enough to butcher their own birds are gone. Convenience reigns supreme, and people are willing to settle for less to get such convenience. In her book, Strang writes about how it's common to find birds still alive and kicking at the market. Butchered birds are a rarity, because the peasant farmers don't always know if they'll be able to sell all of their stock. The recipes in her book are, as I have already stated, practically an anthropological curiosity. While nutritious and hearty in their right, the likelihood of the majority being prepared in an American kitchen are slim without some serious substitutions.
While waterfowl hunting is still fairly popular in parts of the country, wild ducks and geese do not have the same proportions of fat because they are not fed fortified corn. Even more important to note is that often with French imported duck products, the ducks have been force fed in the weeks leading up to butcher in order to get the maximum size out of their livers, which are referred to as foie gras. The livers weigh well more than a pound in most cases, and some say the livers take on a buttery undertone as a result. On the other hand, many have shunned foie gras because of the fact that many operations use a funnel and auger to force the feed down the duck's esophagus. In fact, there are few that don't use this method. See here Gourmet Foodstore foie gras and here Caviar & More's foie gras.
Still, it's arguable whether this extra feeding to enhance the liver has any real bearing on the other parts of the duck or goose. Certainly, it could be argued this adds to the amount of fat on the bird, but that is something ducks and geese are designed to do by nature.

But, aside from the availability factor, the most considerable hindrance for investing in some of these foodstuffs is due to the price. Hudson Valley Foie Gras makes a wide variety of duck products, and has been featured by Anthony Bourdain. One can get at least three times the amount of duck confit as they would paying the same price for a French import and only getting two duck legs in a can. Info on Hudson Valley in New York state can be found here: Hudson Valley Foie Gras.

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